Pikes Peak Recovery Effort


September 30, 2008





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El Paso County began this effort the night before but due to weather conditions and fading light had postponed efforts until Tuesday. Pikes Peak is a relatively tame mountain, however its north face is no place to be when conditions turn. The north face holds some classic mountaineering routes that attract mountain climbers wordwide. (More on the North Face here.) El Paso County Search and Rescue, Teller County Search and Rescue, and members of the Army met at the top of Pikes Peak at 7 am Tuesday morning to resume operations. Also Neal and Teresa the Barr Camp caretakers hiked in that morning to begin searching from below.




Teller County was given an assignment that took us down the ridge leading northeast from the summit toward the two-mile sign of the Barr trail. This gave us some great vistas of the north face. We spent quite a bit of time scanning the north face with binoculars. However we were unable to see all the way into many of the couloirs.


While we were scanning the north face, we saw one of the El Paso teams begin the treacherous descent into the far left branch of the Y-Couloir. Conditions this time of year are terrible. Not enough ice and snow has accumulated to stabilize the rock or allow for crampons, but enough to make it slick. So you get loose icy rock on a steep slope. Props to these guys.


We also saw Neal and Teresa coming up the Bottomless pit trail and beginning to work their way up into the Y-Couloir. (I believe it's Teresa that's visible in the lower left of the photo.) Neal and Teresa frequently volunteer to help locate lost individuals on Pikes Peak. Their efforts have benefited many people.


While scanning the many ledges and cliffs of the north face we received news over the radio that Neal and Teresa had located the individual just below the bottom of the Y-Couloir. They also relayed the unfortunate news that he has passed away. All other teams were recalled to the summit to re-group and make a plan to recover the body.


The effort was coordinated by a great leadership team from El Paso County SAR.


We were also joined by 24 members of the subjects army unit. It was great to have such a large showing of support in this mission.


Due to the large party and lack of urgency we chose to take a longer but safer route to the subject. We descended the Barr trail down to 2-mile.


At two-mile we turned off and cut cross country to the bottomless pit.


This Army unit has been preparing for this kind of terrain and did well traversing the steep loose slope.


During the traverse Flight-for-Life flew a coroner into the Bottomless Pit area so he could hike up to the location of the subject.


Coming around the corner into the Bottomless Pit the view begins to reveal the rough terrain of the North Face.


When we reached the rib that hides the north face from view from Colorado Springs we could see the rest of the route to reach the subject. The largest snow field near the center of the photo is the Y-Couloir and the subject location was just below that.


We were fortunate to have perfect weather for this mission.


Since a large team always takes more time to move through any area, Ray and I were sent ahead to scout the easiest route for the team. Here is Ray working his way up through the boulders to reach the base of the Y-Couloir.


Looking back as the rest the team comes over the rib and enters the bottomless pit.


The higher we went the slicker and looser the rock became. We relayed the conditions down to the rest of the team and they broke into smaller groups to try to keep everyone safe.


Neal and Teresa looking the couloir.


One of the El Paso guys pointed out the sedan from the suicide attempt earlier in the year. The car is resting on the wedge shaped rock above the snowfield and slightly left of center.


Zoom in on the car.


We also came across a tire and shock nearby where we were.


One of the members of the Army unit reaching the subject carrying half of the litter.


Another member bringing up the second half.


The approximate route taken to reach the subject (Photo taken much earlier in the year).


This is my GPS track with locations of the summit and where the subject was found.
(Datum is NAD27 CONUS)


After the coroner cleared the area we set up an anchor and loaded the subject for a lower to a better location for helicopter extraction. We actually hadn't known for sure we were getting a helicopter until this point.


The guys found a great rock to work from for the lift.


As soon as the helicopter cleared the edge from the summit we could feel the wind from the blades.


As it approached it began to kick up snow, then pebbles, then ice chunks, then rocks.


A couple of the El Paso guys trying to take cover from the wind.


It's pretty amazing to have 12 tons hovering over your head.


Their ability to maneuver such a huge powerful craft precariously next to cliffs made it possible for us to quickly and safely get the subject out.


After picking up the subject the Chinook helicopter went down to the bottomless pit to pick up the first load of team members. The helicopter is just right of center in the photo. The guys that were down there had been staged lower in case we had to do a carry-out they would take over after the upper team got the litter off the steeper slopes. After finding out the helicopter was coming they were sent down to find a landing zone.


After the helicopter left, those of us that were left quickly broke down the anchors and ropes and headed out to the landing zone.


The Chinook landing at the bottomless pit landing zone for the second time.


Ray watching the Chinook land.


Loading up.


Don on board. I think the guy on his right is Kurtis.


Ray on board.


A rare look at the summit of Pikes Peak.


There was an appropriate dark cloud that loomed overhead as we off loaded. Though overall it was a successfull mission as it went very smooth, it's still difficult to not have been able to bring him home alive.




The officer that led the unit that day presented each member from El Paso SAR and Teller SAR with one of these awards for excellence. It had been an honor to work with them. I know I'm thankful I had the chance to serve the men that in a few months time will be laying their lives on the line for others.


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